This is the Beehive, site of one of the most difficult climbs in Acadia National Park. Although it is not particularly long, much of the way up is scrambling rather than hiking. The cliffs are sheer, the ledges are narrow, and hikers have to depend on iron bars and in one place a dreadful iron bridge that I refused to walk on so scooted across on my butt. I was, in two places, ready to give up and go back. I am athletic-enough as a hiker and climber: this was not a physical problem but a mental one. But Tom stayed behind me and coached me through everything that I thought I couldn't do. His voice was peaceable and confident. He didn't hold me up but at moments of terror he would lay a hand gently on my back. I never want to hike anywhere scary without him. He always gets me to the top and he is never, ever a jerk about my fear.

And when I did get to the top, this is what I saw. To the bottom left is Sand Beach, Acadia's only saltwater swimming area. It faces directly into the Atlantic, and the waves can be high. On the day we were there, the air temperature was about 50 degrees, the breeze was steady, and silly teenagers were wading around in the surf. Later on the hike my own silly teenager dunked his head into a pond. He said it was because he liked the smell of ponds. Then he ate a lot of shortbread cookies.

Here is a view of the Beehive from the other side, as we headed back down toward the beach. In the summer, when the birches are in leaf, it will be invisible from this angle.

Our friend Keith, who was hiking with us, then took us on a short walk down the road to Thunder Hole. In the summer Thunder Hole is surrounded by RVs and minivans and oblivious tourists who don't understand that the carefully delimited walkway and railing mean that their children should not climb over the side and run around on the ledge and throw rocks at Uncle Claud. During hurricanes and nor'easters, these same families are particularly eager to congregate around Thunder Hole. Since we've lived in Maine, at least two people, both children, have been washed away to their deaths here.

When the tide is right, Thunder Hole really does thunder. Yesterday it was more like Burping Gurgling Hole, which as far as I was concerned was just as enjoyable.